Christmas Cactus ....

Another great favorite seasonal houseplant. The blossoms come in various colors ... white, red, orange, pink, white with pink edging. Christmas cactus do not seem to be readily available in our area as the amaryllis or poinsettia. What's up with that?

I have copied and pasted the care of the Christmas Cactus from the website: http://www.wikihow.com/Care-for-a-Christmas-Cactus

Christmas Cactus Care

1. A Christmas Cactus will appreciate bright but indirect light. Keep the plant in a well-lit location (like near a window) away from direct sunlight (which can stunt growth and burn the leaves), drafts, heat vents, fireplaces or other sources of hot air. Move an indoors plant outdoors in summer to a shady location. It is best to keep in a normal house temperature range (65 to 80 degrees F.

   

   
   
2. Provide a source of humidity if you live in a dry environment. Put a tray of water next to the plant so that the water evaporates and provides humidity. Alternatively, you can make a humidity tray by placing the pot on a waterproof saucer that is filled with gravel and halfway filled with water.
3. Water a Christmas Cactus with care. Caring for this plant can be a bit tricky as you need to take care not to overwater or underwater it:

1. • Care must be taken not to underwater it, as a Christmas cactus is a tropical plant, not a true cactus. Unlike many cacti, this variety cannot tolerate completely dry soil. If the soil gets too dry, the flowers buds will drop, and the plant will wilt. Feel the soil with your fingers; if it feels dry, it's time to water.
   • Too much watering will cause spots from white rot to appear on the leaves, and the leaves will likely fall off. The soil should be evenly moist for best growth. The rule of thumb is, less water is better than too much water.
   • When watering, thoroughly water the plant. Before attempting to water the plant again, check to see that the top inch of soil has dried thoroughly first. Mist leaves as well as watering the soil.
   • Water the cactus based on your environment and the time of year. A good method is to water a cactus as follows:
     • Dry climate, outdoors: Water every two to three days when warm and sunny.
     • Humid, cool or indoors: Water every week.
     • During the fall and winter months, the plants should be watered less frequently in order to promote blooming.
   • Never water the top of the plant. Instead find a container that has many holes in its bottom. Some of the cheap nursery planters will work well, or also orchid planters, the plastic basket kind, work well also. Pair this planter with a planter that will hold water and allow the basket to fit down into. Place a few medium sized rocks into the bottom so that the basket container will be held about an inch above the bottom. Use a combination of 3 parts potting soil to one part sand for the potting medium. Finally pour about two inches of room temp water into the outer container and set the basket container inside. After about twelve hours pour out any remaining water. Repeat this as often as the plant needs water, it will vary based on your home's condition. Monitor its need with a moisture prod and adjust accordingly.
2. Add fertilizer to assist plant growth. Plants that are actively growing should be given a blooming houseplant-type fertilizer. Follow the label directions for how much and how often to feed. Fertilizing is important to keep the plant in good condition; the joints are fragile and can break apart if the plant descends into poor health. Generally, it should be fertilized 2-4 times a year with a 20-20-20 feed, but stop feeding about a month before the buds appear (this usually means stopping by the end of October).
3. Encourage the flower blooming for the holiday season. The key to getting Christmas cactus to flower during the holiday season is proper light exposure, correct temperatures and limited watering.
   • Because this plant is thermo-photoperiodic, it will set buds when day length is about equal to night length and when the temperature drops to 50 to 60 degrees F for several weeks.
   • Keep in a dark bathroom for the night. During the fall months, the Christmas Cactus should be placed in a spot where it receives indoor indirect, bright light during the daylight hours but total darkness at night (absolutely no artificial light). The Christmas Cactus requires long, uninterrupted dark periods, about 12 or more hours each night. Begin the dark treatments in about mid-October to have plants in full bloom by the holidays. Place the plants in a dark area from about 12 or more hours each night for 6-8 weeks or until you see buds forming. A closet or unused bathroom are ideal places.
   • From September and October, the Christmas Cactus should be kept in a cool room where temperatures will remain around 50 degrees, give or take a few degrees. Don't expose the plant to freezing temperatures. Plants should be blooming for the holidays if cool treatments are started by early November.
   • Be especially careful with watering at this time. Reduce the watering slightly. Do not soak the soil after a dry period; only moisten the top few inches, since buds, flowers and even leaves can fall off if the roots are suddenly saturated.
4. Prune the Christmas cactus about a month after blooming. This will encourage the plant to branch out, especially after a period of "rest" has been granted. It will not look very pretty after the blossoms have faded. Some people wait until March or so, when new growth begins, to prune the cactus.
5. Propagate a Christmas Cactus by cutting off sections of the stem. Each section must consist of two or three joined segments. Allow each section to dry for a few hours before pushing them into a 3-inch pot that contains the same potting soil as the parent plant. Plant halfway down the first segment. Treat the cuttings as mature plants. In about four to six weeks, the cuttings should have rooted and will begin to show some new growth. They grow quickly, and should take in about two or three weeks. You can fertilize after cutting has grown one new segment.

   Tips

• The blooming instructions are based on having a cold Christmas. If you reside in the Southern Hemisphere, you may have more difficulty finding this plant around Christmas time, and they'll need more controlled conditions in order to bloom during the holidays. You'll probably have better luck getting them to bloom during the coldest months of the year.
• The best time for repotting is between February and April, about once every three years.^[1] Just be sure not to give it a pot that's too big; the Christmas Cactus flowers best when it's pot-bound. Provide a soil that's well-drained with good aeration (e.g. one part potting soil, two parts peat moss or compost, and one part sharp sand or perlite).
• Christmas Cactus is a beautiful plant that can bloom year after year; you will want to keep it even after the holidays pass. You can even pass it down through generations.
• One of the most frustrating things that can happen to Christmas cactus is after the flower buds have developed they drop off the plant. Bud drop can be caused by several different conditions. Usually it's because of over-watering, lack of humidity or insufficient light.

Warnings

• Any sudden changes in temperature, light and watering will damage the Christmas Cactus. Drafts and temperature extremes can cause the flower buds to drop from the plant before they have a chance to open. Introduce changes gradually.
• The Christmas cactus should never be placed near a door that opens and closes to the outside. Likewise, keep it away from heating ducts or near the fireplace or drafty areas.

Yes, Christmas Cactus make a colorful, intriguing gift. Give it a try or maybe, pick one up for yourself. Houseplants, this time of year, bring a smile to most anyone's face. So, hope you have a good day and until next time, Happy Gardening.

Amaryllis ...

Another seasonal plant. A friend of mine has two amaryllis bulb she intends on placing in ceramic planters this week. They will bloom after Christmas, but what the heck? Amaryllis produce beautiful blooms, anytime.

When first received my amaryllis bulb, I was appreciative, yet not sure how to care for. The only thing I knew about amaryllis bulbs were that they were sold at Christmastime, were red in color and bloomed once and were discarded. So, I began the "amaryllis journey" by reading instructions which were included with bulb, that said to plant in soil up to the crown, water, place in sunny location indoors and watch for red blooms in four to six weeks. Well needless to say, I wanted more info. And what heaps of info was available: blooms come in many different colors, some can be grown outdoors, bulbs can be saved and replanted, etc.

The following info was copied from amaryllis.com. I thought it was good reading, just enough info to have you looking for more.

Quick Tips:

• Planting Period: October until the end of April.
• Flowering Period: Late December until the end of June.
• Flowering time is 7-10 weeks.
• Larger bulbs produce more flowers.
• Always store un-planted bulbs in a cool place between 40-50 deg. F.

Amaryllis-One of a Kind

Of all flowering bulbs, amaryllis are the easiest to bring to bloom. This can be accomplished indoors or out, and over an extended period of time. The amaryllis originated in South America's tropical regions and has the botanical name Hippeastrum. The large flowers and ease with which they can be brought to bloom make amaryllis popular and in demand worldwide. The amaryllis comes in many beautiful varieties including various shades of red, white, pink, salmon and orange. There are also many striped and multicolored varieties, usually combining shades of pink or red with white.

Preparation for Planting

The base and roots of the bulb should be placed in lukewarm water for a few hours. Remember, if you cannot plant the bulbs immediately after receiving them, store them at a cool temperature between 40-50 degrees F.

Planting

Plant bulbs in a nutritious potting compost, many are available pre-mixed. Plant the bulb up to

its neck in the potting compost, being careful not to damage the roots. Press the soil down firmly to set the bulb securely in place after planting.

Placement and Watering

Plant the bulb, or place the potted bulb in a warm place with direct light since heat is necessary for the development of the stems. The ideal temperature is 68 to 70 degrees F. Water sparingly until the stem appears, then, as the bud and leaves appear, gradually water more. At this point, the stem will grow rapidly and flowers will develop after it has reached full growth.

Flowering Period

Bulbs will flower in 7-10 weeks as a general rule. In winter the flowering time will be longer than in spring. Set up your planting schedule between October and April with this in mind. To achieve continuous bloom, plant at intervals of 2 weeks for stunning color in your home or garden.

After-Bloom Care

After-Flowering. After the amaryllis has stopped flowering, it can be made to flower again. Cut the old flowers from the stem after flowering, and when the stem starts to sag, cut it back to the top of the bulb.
Leaf Growth and Development. Continue to water and fertilize as normal all summer, or for at least 5-6 months, allowing the leaves to fully develop and grow. When the leaves begin to yellow, which normally occurs in the early fall, cut the leaves back to about 2 inches from the top of the bulb and remove the bulb from the soil.
Bulb Storage. Clean the bulb and place it in a cool (40-50 deg. F), dark place such as the crisper of your refrigerator for a minimum of 6 weeks. Caution: Do not store amaryllis bulbs in a refrigerator that contains apples, this will sterilize the bulbs. Store the bulbs for a minimum of 6 weeks.
Plant Again. After 6 weeks you may remove bulbs whenever you would like to plant them. Plant bulbs 8 weeks before you would like them to bloom.

So when you receive that amaryllis bulb, do not be intimidated, just learn about it, plant it and enjoy it. They make a great Christmas gift. Try one.

Remember that our daylily farm website, Oakville Farm, will be up and running in a short while. Please stay close by and keep those daylily plants in mind and on your list!

Hope you have a good day. And until next time, Happy Gardening.

Poinsettia ....

You may think now that outdoor gardening is at rest, it is time to rest from gardening. Well, not so much. This time of year, there are several specific houseplants that are plentiful.

For example the Poinsettia.

They are seen on church alters, in shopping mall displays, at nurseries and at Grandma's house. From short to tall. From red to orange to yellow and white. Poinsettia's make a pretty addition to this holiday season.

Poinsettia's are a type of Euphoribia genus. It can grow from about a foot tall to tree like stature. It has dark green leaves and small bracts. The bracts are actually colored leaves. These can be orange, red, yellow, white, pink. Bracts are formed from twelve hours of darkness for at least five days in a row. After that they need lots of bright light for continued color. The poinsettia does have flowers, they are the small yellow structures found in the center of the leaf bunches. And there are more than one hundred cultivars of poinsettias. They are grown and cared for indoors this time of year.

So how are they cared for during this season?

+ place it in a sunny window, preferably south, east or west
+ keep daytime temp near 70 and night time temp around 60, drastic change in temp is not advised
+ water when surface feels dry to the touch, do not let it sit in water
+ if your house tends to be dry, more watering may be necessary, poinsettias do not like an arrid air

Poinsettia plants provide a beautiful color to your tabletop or on your desk. They remind us that spring will not be far behind.

So be sure and pick up one today ... one for a neighbor, a shut-in, a co-worker or for yourself. It will bring a bit of Mother Nature inside.

Hope you have a good day and until next time, Happy Gardening.

"The garden is a mirror of the heart." ~Author Unknown

So, are you making plans for the 2012 growing season? Questions abound....

What shall we plant?
Do we have enough seeds?
Where shall we purchase such seeds/plants?
How large of a garden?
Fertilizer?
Flower garden or vegetable garden?

And I am sure there are many more questions that will arise and plans that will be changed. My mind is just swirling with thoughts, hope yours is also.

Well, here is to a good, strong mind that is always working .... Have a good day and until next time, Happy Gardening.

There is no season such delight can bring As summer, autumn, winter and the spring.
~William Browne

Do you see delight in this late autumn season? We certainly do. The daytime shadows are stronger and deeper in early dawn and late at dusk. The morning frosts are bold and steadfast and gone by nine. Silhouettes stand tall and powerful all day long.

Wow, what a day is ahead! Hope you will find a moment to walk outdoors or peer out a window, today. Take in this "Mother Nature" that is all around.

Hope you have a good day and until next time, Happy Gardening.

Law of the Workshop: Any tool, when dropped, will roll to the least accessible corner. ~Author Unknown

And do yo find that to be true? Tools that have a mind of their own? Oh yes, they do!!!!

As far as winterizing tools, are there any special techniques that you use to clean/storage gardening tools? This will apply to hand tools and larger tools/equipment. Here are a few suggestions that we have tried and a few that we have heard of....

Tools ...

+ remove dirt/mud/built-in grime using a wire brush
+ wipe off with dry clean cloth
+ spray metal parts with WD-40 for lubrication/prevent rust
+ wipe wooden handles with boiled linseed oil
+ check screw, nuts, etc and tighten where needed
+ sharpen blades where applicable
+ paint handle bright color (will be able to find when lost)
+ store in bucket of clean sand and motor oil mixed or
hang them or
stand upright in protected area


Garden Hoses ...

+ drain them
+ examine for cracks, leaks or holes
+ unkink before storing
+ hang on hose supports or hose reels, if not, loosely coiled
+ store in a dry location

Garden Carts, Wheelbarrows ...

+ check tires for leaks, maintain proper air pressure
+ clean thoroughly
+ touch up with paint to prevent exposed areas to rust
+ grease wheels
+ store out of the weather

Power Equipment ...

+ wipe clean of all leaves, debris, dirt
+ tighten all screws
+ lubricate where applicable
+ sharpen cutting blades
+ check hoses for leaks or kinks
+ change oil, spark plugs where applies
+ check air and oil filters and replace if needed
+ empty fuel lines of old fuel
+ store under shelter


Now that your maintenance projects are complete ... you can relax and say "Good job, well done ... for this 2011 gardening season!"

All for now ... until next time, Happy Gardening.

When the bold branches
Bid farewell to rainbow leaves -
Welcome wool sweaters.
~B. Cybrill

Yes, cooler temps are upon us. And what tasks lay before you when it comes to gardening? Is your equipment properly winterized? Are tools cleaned, stored and inventoried? Lists of new bulbs and plants close by? Now is the time to prepare for next years gardening adventure.

I look forward to the mailman's delivery, don't you? The spring bulb, plant, gardening catalogs begin arriving in early January. What a treat!!!! Which is your favorite? Each catalog has its own uniqueness ... I like to peruse them all. And what do you do with all those catalogs? Local nursing homes, senior centers, schools, they all like your leftover or duplicate catalogs. Be sure to Recycle.

Be sure to spend time outdoors today. In the snow, in the cold, in the rain, in the sun .... take it in, if just for a moment. Hope you have a good day. And until next time, Happy Gardening.

PS. Want to send a Happy Birthday to my aunt, AC. Hope you have a good day. 79 years "young" today!!!